Are you in the market for a used mountain bike? Then this post is for you!
Take a breath and prepare yourself for what could be an exciting and rewarding experience but also a potentially disappointing one. It’s no secret that the market for second-hand bikes can be a minefield for unsuspecting buyers, particularly when it comes to used mountain bikes.
But don’t worry; I’m here to help you steer clear of any scams and make a smart purchase that will have you tearing up the trails in no time!
So, let’s dive in and take a look at some key tips on how to buy the best used mountain bike for you!
If you’ve never bought a mountain bike before, consider reading my beginner’s guide on how to buy a mountain bike. It’s full of information to get you started in the right direction and ensure you look at used mountain bikes that suit your needs.
9 Questions to Ask the Seller
The best way to get a sense of whether the bike you’re looking at is in good shape is by asking the seller some specific questions.
How they answer these questions will quickly tell you if the bike is well-maintained, in good shape, and worth buying or hardly looked at, falling apart, and something to walk away from.
Here are 9 questions you should ask the seller when buying a used mountain bike:
Question 1: Are you the original owner? What is the bike’s overall usage history?
Understanding the bike’s ownership history helps assess its condition. If the seller is the original owner, you know you’re getting the bike’s whole story. If the seller isn’t the original owner, you know some of the bike’s history from previous owners will be missing. In this case, you’ll have to look more closely to ensure everything works properly.
You should also inquire about how the bike’s been used. Try to get a sense for how much the bike has been ridden and on what terrain. An often-ridden bike, or a bike ridden on DH trails or in bike parks, will have experienced higher levels of stress and wear compared to one ridden less often or on less demanding trails. If the bike has been ridden hard, you’ll want to take a closer look at the frame and wheels, which are often damaged from aggressive riding.
Question 2: Are there any current issues with the bike?
It’s best to ask the seller directly if there are any current issues with the bike. If they are reluctant to tell you, this is a good sign that the bike is damaged or broken, and they are trying to hide it from you.
Get specific; ask if there is any frame damage or if parts, like the drivetrain, suspension, brakes, or wheels, are in bad shape. This information helps you assess the potential repair or replacement costs before finalizing the purchase.
The 8 Parts to Assess section below gives you much more information on determining if the bike’s parts are working correctly.
Pro Tip
Research current and previous years’ top-rated bikes to help direct your search toward bikes that are known to be well-built with great geometry and solid component specs. Starting with the 13 best beginner mountain bikes in 2023 and looking for their older models is a good place to start!
Question 3: Can you provide the original purchase receipt and any maintenance records for the bike?
Requesting the original purchase receipt when buying a used mountain bike helps verify the bike’s authenticity and age. It can also provide details on the original components and any warranties that may still be valid. Even if the seller isn’t the original owner, ask for the purchase receipt, as they may have gotten it themselves when they bought the bike.
A bike with well-documented service history is often a positive sign of proper care, as routine tune-ups, suspension servicing, and brake bleeds are essential for the longevity and performance of the mountain bike. Ensuring they’ve been appropriately performed is crucial when buying a used mountain bike.
Question 4: Has the bike ever been involved in any accidents or crashes? If yes, what repairs were done afterward?
Knowing if the bike has been in any accidents or crashes is important, as it can impact its structural integrity. Ask the seller about any incidents and if repairs were carried out afterward.
Pay extra attention to any parts of the bike that experienced minor damage. Ask the seller to show you where the damage is/where the repairs were made so you can look for any problems, and be sure to thoroughly evaluate these parts when test riding the bike.
If there was any significant damage to the frame, fork, shock, or wheels that didn’t result in a total replacement, I’d walk away. These three parts are crucial to the safety of your bike, and a catastrophic failure of any of them will likely result in a severe crash.
Question 5: Has the bike undergone any significant modifications or upgrades? If yes, what parts were changed?
It’s common for mountain bikers to make modifications or upgrades based on personal preferences or performance goals. When buying a used mountain bike, inquire about any changes made to the bike, such as upgraded drivetrain components, suspension upgrades, or wheelset replacements, and ask who installed the new parts.
Knowing what modifications were made helps determine if they align with your riding style, and knowing if the changes were made by a knowledgeable individual or a professional bike shop tells you whether you have to worry about the installation or not.
Question 6: Have any parts been replaced due to wear and tear, and if so, which ones and when were they replaced?
Components on a mountain bike are subject to wear and will eventually require replacement. Inquire about any parts that have been replaced due to wear and tear.
Common parts needing regular replacement include tires, brake pads, grips, and chain. Knowing when these parts were last replaced indicates the bike’s current condition and potential upcoming maintenance needs.
Pro Tip
Bring a knowledgeable friend with you when looking to purchase your first used mountain bike. Their years of experience will catch the smaller details, and it never hurts to have a second pair of eyes looking things over.
Question 7: Can you describe the bike’s storage conditions when not in use? Was it kept indoors or exposed to the elements?
The storage conditions of a bike can significantly impact its condition. Ask the seller about how the bike was stored when not in use.
Ideally, a bike should be stored indoors, away from extreme temperatures, moisture, and direct sunlight. If the bike was consistently exposed to the elements, it may have accelerated wear and could require additional maintenance.
Question 8: Are the tires set up tubeless? If not, are they tubeless ready?
Tubeless tires have become increasingly popular due to their many benefits, like reduced punctures and improved traction from lower tire pressures. If the bike is tubeless, great, you can get the benefits immediately.
If not, ask if the tires and rims are tubeless ready. If they are, it’s just a matter of getting your local shop to remove the tubes and add sealant (it should cost around $50 to $100). If they aren’t, you’ll have to buy a pair of tubeless ready tires (add roughly $150 for this) and get your local shop to tape your rims (add approximately $50 for this) before they can do the swap from tubes to tubeless.
Question 9: Can I take it for a test ride?
Test riding the bike is the only way to get a feel for how it rides and if it fits comfortably. It also allows you to test the various components to see how well they work (cycle the suspension, squeeze the brakes, shift through the gears, etc.).
So, even if it’s around a parking lot or down a residential street, ask the seller if you can take the mountain bike for a test ride. If they say no, walk away.
In Summary
If, after asking these questions, you get the sense that the bike was well-maintained, then you should move on to assessing the different parts of the bike.
But, if it’s clear the bike has not been looked after, you’re probably best to walk away and find something better. When you’re there, It can be tempting to buy the bike and deal with the issues later. Still, it’s hardly ever worth it, and you’re much better off continuing your search until you find a used mountain bike that’s been well cared for and in good shape.
8 Parts to Assess When Buying a Used Mountain Bike
Knowing what parts to look at and what is and isn’t in good working order is the next step in buying a used mountain bike.
So, take your time and carefully assess these eight parts to ensure your new-to-you mountain bike meets your needs and keeps you safe on the trails.
This next section uses a lot of mountain bike terminology. If you’re unfamiliar with common mountain bike parts, take five minutes to learn a mountain bike’s anatomy and then come back. It’ll help you understand what I’m talking about.
1) Frame
When buying a used mountain bike, the first thing you need to look at is the mountain bike’s frame. Everything else on your mountain bike is dependent upon it. Without a good frame, you don’t have a rideable bike.
Here’s what to look for:
- Scan the frame for any cracks, especially around known problem areas like the shock mounts, bottom bracket, and chainstays.
- Scan the frame for dents, particularly on the underside of the bike, where rock strikes are most common.
- If it’s an aluminum bike, pay particular attention to the welds, looking for any thin lines running through them.
- If it’s a carbon bike, run your hands along the frame and look for soft spots – if you find one, the frame has been damaged.
If any of these issues show up, walk away. Even if the bike is rideable, it’s not worth the risk of catastrophic failure when you’re out on the trails.
2) Suspension
A mountain bike’s fork and rear shock are the most expensive parts after the frame. Not only that, but they arguably play the most important role in how the bike handles and how comfortable it is to ride. A mountain bike really isn’t a mountain bike with broken suspension.
Here’s what to look for:
- Look for scuffs or marks on the stanchions of the fork and shaft of the rear shock. If any are visible, assume you’ll have to replace the part.
- Turn the compression and rebound knobs and feel for noticeable, consistent clicks to ensure they operate correctly. Test this further by jumping on the bike between changes to see if the fork and shock respond correctly. If they’re not, this is a sign that the compression and rebound controls are broken and will need replacing.
- Look at the shock seals to see if they are cracked or worn. If they are, this is a good sign the fork/shock will need a service (~$150 per part). Any sign of oil is also a good indication that a service is required.
Suspension is extremely finicky, and having never ridden the bike before, knowing whether the fork or shock is appropriately functioning can be difficult. If everything feels fine and responds to changes in compression and rebound, then the suspension should be good to go. But, if there’s visible damage on the stanchions/shaft, or if the compression and/or rebound are broken, it’s likely best to move on from the bike.
3) Drivetrain
Due to the number of moving parts, its proximity to the ground, and the general wear-and-tear it’s subjected to, a used mountain bike’s drivetrain is often one of the hardest hit parts. You won’t be moving anywhere fast with a broken drivetrain, so ensuring everything is properly functioning is crucial.
Here’s what to look for:
- Look at the teeth of the chainring and cassette to see if they are pointed and look like shark fins. If they do, the cassette/chainring is worn out and needs replacing.
- Put the chain in the largest cog. Then, go to the chainring and pull the chain towards the front of the bike. If the chain pulls away from the chainring by half a tooth or more, it’s stretched and needs replacing.
- Look at the derailleur/derailleur hanger to ensure it’s straight. If it’s bent, you’ll have to replace the hanger.
- Get on the bike and shift up and down through all the gears. Ensure every shift is smooth and crisp. If it’s not, you may need to replace the cables/housing, adjust the derailleur, or buy a new derailleur hanger – all relatively simple fixes a shop can take care of.
Ensuring the teeth of the chainring and cogs are not worn is the most important thing, as they’re the most expensive to replace. If you’ve determined they’re in good shape but are still experiencing minor issues like skipping, it’s most likely due to a misaligned derailleur which should be a simple fix for your local shop.
4) Brakes
Your mountain bike’s brakes are integral to your safety. No brakes = no stopping, and that will be a bad time for you. Thankfully, confirming the brakes are working correctly is pretty straightforward.
Here’s what to look for:
- Look at the rotors and see if they are discoloured (i.e. not silver). If so, they are contaminated and must be cleaned/resurfaced or replaced.
- While examining the rotors, look at the brake pads to see how much is left. If the pads are within a few mm of the metal plate, they’ll need replacing (~$25-50 per set).
- Squeeze the brake levers. If they touch the bars and feel soft, they’ll likely need to be bled. Squeeze repeatedly to ensure a similar feel each time. The feel changing from one squeeze to the next also indicates a bleed is likely needed.
- When squeezing the levers, ensure there is no oil leaking. If there is, it’ll likely need to be looked at by a shop to determine the cause and solution.
- When test riding the bike, ensure you work the brakes like you would when riding a regular trail. Brake hard to simulate an abrupt stop and brake gently to simulate a gradual slowing down. Ensure the braking is consistent and the power is noticeable.
Usually, the most common problems of hydraulic brakes (soft levers, inconsistent brake points, and poor stopping power) are easily solved with a quick bleed and/or replacing the pads. But, if you have absolutely zero stopping power or see a lot of oil leaking, it may be a sign that the brakes are shot and need replacing. I’d steer clear in that case, as new brakes are not cheap.
5) Wheels
Your mountain bike’s wheels take a beating, making them one of the most likely parts to be damaged. Strong, durable, good-condition wheels are also paramount to your safety; any previous wheel damage can potentially cause a severe crash, especially when riding at speed.
Here’s what to look for:
- For aluminum rims, look for any dents, especially near the tires. If present, running your tires tubeless may be difficult. While likely fixable, it may get expensive.
- For aluminum and carbon rims, look for any cracks. If present, the rims are not worth riding and will need to be replaced ($300-$600).
- Spin the wheel and look for any movement. Some movement is normal, but any significant wobbles likely indicate a bigger issue that’ll need fixing at the shop.
- Pull on each spoke to ensure consistent tension. If any feel soft or loose, you’ll have to bring the wheel into the shop to fix the spoke tension. If a spoke is broken, it’ll need to be replaced.
- Push each tire side to side, holding the bike firmly to ensure it doesn’t move. If there’s any movement in the wheel, the hubs likely need to be serviced (~$50 per hub).
Thankfully, most wheel issues are pretty visual, allowing you to quickly see if something is wrong. Not only that but almost everything can be fixed by your shop for a relatively good price. If a rim is dented or cracked, I’d steer clear of the bike, but a slight wobble or loose spoke shouldn’t be a deal breaker.
6) Bottom Bracket
Your mountain bike’s bottom bracket connects your cranks and pedals to the frame. If your bottom bracket is broken, pedalling becomes more difficult and shifting less smooth. So, having one that functions properly is crucial to your mountain bike working correctly.
Here’s what to look for:
- Listen for any creaking when test riding the bike, especially when pedalling or compressing the suspension. If you hear creaking, it’s a good sign the bottom bracket’s bearings need replacing.
- When pedalling, feel for any crunching or grinding. If present, the bearings need replacing.
- Grab one pedal in each hand and try moving the bottom bracket from side to side. If there’s any movement, it’s a good sign the bearings need replacing.
If you feel any of these issues, the bottom bracket will need to be serviced ($50-$100). If you don’t feel these issues, still ask the seller when the bottom bracket was last looked at. If it was recently, you should be good for another season. But, if it wasn’t in the last year, you’ll likely need to get it serviced soon.
7) Dropper Post
Most modern mountain bikes will have a dropper post that allows you to raise and lower your seat depending on the terrain you’re riding. A broken dropper post that doesn’t raise or only stays raised doesn’t allow you to properly ride your bike. As such, ensuring it functions appropriately and consistently raises and lowers with no issues is essential.
Here’s what to look for:
- With the seat down, press the lever. If it doesn’t rise, either the cable is damaged, or the cable is too loose.
- Raise the seat. Without pressing the lever, push down on the seat. If it compresses, either the cable is damaged, or the cable is too tight.
- Look at the seal around the seat. If it’s dry, cracked, or worn out, it’s a good sign the post hasn’t been recently serviced and will require one.
Dropper post issues are often fixed with a simple barrel adjustment, cable replacement, or cable and housing replacement. Thankfully, you can try the barrel adjustment on the spot to see if it fixes any of the abovementioned problems. If it doesn’t, a shop can replace the cable/housing for $50-$100. If the dropper post is scratched, scuffed, or acting erratically, there’s probably a more significant problem, and I’d recommend passing on the bike or budgeting a total replacement of the dropper post ($250 – $500).
8) Touchpoints
Last up are the mountain bike’s touchpoints. These include its grips, saddle, and pedals. These connect you to the bike, so you’ll want to ensure they feel comfortable and aren’t overly worn.
Here’s what to look for:
- Check the grips to see if they are cracked, crumbling, or worn thin. If they are, I’d replace them (~$50) to ensure your hands remain comfortable and you keep good control of the bike.
- Check the saddle for any cracks, peeling, or excessive wear. Look at the rails/clamps to ensure they aren’t broken. Also, sit on the saddle to ensure it feels comfortable. You spend a lot of time sitting, so ensuring your saddle is in good shape is important. A quality replacement will run you $150 to $300.
- Check the pedals to ensure they spin freely, aren’t cracked, and have all their pins. If the pedals are clipless, I recommend bringing a set of clipless shoes to ensure the mechanism functions smoothly, allowing you to clip in and out comfortably. A quality pair of pedals will cost $100 to $200.
The touchpoints are likely the least important parts on your wishlist. But, they allow you to handle and control your bike, so ensuring they 1) fit comfortably and 2) function properly is vital to the long-term enjoyment of your bike. If you don’t like them, replace them – just be prepared to pay $50 to $400 for everything.
Average Repair & Replacement Costs
Here is a chart of most mountain bike parts’ average repair and replacement costs.
The service prices are based on a professional mountain bike shop performing the work. The part prices are for quality, mountain bike specific parts.
Part | Cost (CAD) |
---|---|
Fork Service | $125 – $250 |
Shock Service | $100 – $200 |
Chain | $50 – $100 |
Chainring | $50 – $150 |
Cassette | $100 – $400 |
Cables/Housing | $50 – $100 |
Derailleur Hanger | $15 – $30 |
Brake Pads | $25 – $50 |
Brake Blled | $50 – $100 |
Bottom Bracket | $50 – $100 |
Bottom Bracket Service | $50 – $100 |
Rims | $300 – $600 |
Rim Tape | $25 – $50 |
Tubeless Ready Tires | $120 – $240 |
Tubeless Swap | $50 – $100 |
Hubs | $300 – $500 |
Hub Service | $50 – $100 |
Spokes | $25 – $50 |
Dropper Post | $250 – $500 |
Dropper Post Cable | $30 – $50 |
Dropper Post Service | $100 – $200 |
Grips | $40 – $80 |
Saddle | $150 – $300 |
Pedals | $100 – $200 |
Pro Tip
Keep some extra money in your budget for future maintenance and repairs. No matter how good of a condition your used mountain bike is in, at some point, it will require service and possible repairs. I recommend keeping $500 left over.
Where to Buy a Used Mountain Bike
By now, you should feel confident buying a used mountain bike. Here are some great places to start looking.
Pinkbike
Pinkbike is a popular online marketplace dedicated to all things mountain biking. It boasts an extensive selection of used bikes, allowing you to browse various options based on your preferences, budget, and location.
With its user-friendly interface and robust community, Pinkbike provides a reliable platform to connect with sellers, ask questions, and negotiate prices. You can find detailed listings with comprehensive descriptions and high-quality images to help you make an informed decision.
I’ve bought dozens of things from Pinkbike over the past 10+ years and have never had any problems. You can visit their BuySell section to get started!
Local Facebook Groups
Engaging with local Facebook groups can help you tap into a network of fellow riders who might be looking to sell their used mountain bikes. These groups often foster a sense of trust and camaraderie, making it easier to find well-maintained bikes at reasonable prices. Members will also be quick to call out any known scammers, alerting moderators to remove the individual from the group, significantly reducing your chances of getting scammed.
Additionally, you can seek advice and recommendations and more easily test ride bikes from other group members. You can also ask group members if they, or anyone they know, are selling a specific bike you’re looking for.
If you’re in Ontario, groups like Mountain Bikers Ontario and Ontario Mountain & Road Bike Classifieds are two good places to start. If you’re outside Ontario, similar groups should exist in your area!
The Pro’s Closet
The Pro’s Closet is a reputable online marketplace specializing in high-quality, certified pre-owned mountain bikes. Their team of experienced technicians carefully evaluates each bike’s condition, repairs any necessary components, and provides detailed information about its history and specifications. This rigorous inspection and refurbishment process ensures their used mountain bikes meet stringent quality and performance standards.
I was reluctant to add an online retailer to this list as it goes against my recommendation of test riding the bike before you buy it. That said, The Pro’s Closet has a stellar reputation, and its impressive inventory of certified pre-owned mountain bikes is hard to ignore. That said, I’d still leave it as your last option when buying a used mountain bike; it’s probably best suited to purchasing a bike that you’ve test ridden, loved, and want to buy but can’t find locally.
Local Shops
Your local bike shops are another fantastic place to buy a used mountain bike. Look around the shops near you to see if they have a selection of pre-owned bikes available for sale. Also, see if they have rentals and/or demo bikes available. If they do, they’ll likely be put up for sale at the end of the season, providing another great option for buying a used mountain bike.
The advantage of buying a used mountain bike from a bike shop is that they ensure the bikes they sell are in good working condition. Additionally, you can benefit from their expertise and guidance, and the staff can help you with sizing, fitting adjustments, and any specific requirements you may have. This removes a lot of the work of asking the seller the questions mentioned above and taking the time to assess the parts.
If you live in the Greater Toronto Area, check out the shops featured in my best mountain bike shops in Toronto list to see what used mountain bikes they have available for sale!
Conclusion
Buying a used mountain bike can be a wise and rewarding choice for newcomers to the sport. You can find a high-quality, affordable option that meets your specific needs by asking specific questions and carefully inspecting the bike’s most important parts.
Whether you’re seeking thrills on rugged trails or embracing nature’s beauty, buying a used mountain bike opens up a world of adventure without breaking the bank. So, get ready to hit the trails and enjoy the exhilarating experience of exploring the great outdoors on your trusty used mountain bike!
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, buying a used mountain bike is OK. Ask the seller about the mountain bike’s history and if there are any current issues to ensure the bike is in good condition. Assess the frame, suspension, brakes, and drivetrain for defects, and test ride the bike to ensure everything functions properly.
There are eight primary parts you should inspect when buying a used mountain bike. These include the frame, suspension, brakes, drivetrain, bottom bracket, wheels, dropper post, and touchpoints. You can read the 8 Parts to Assess section above for detailed instructions on inspecting each part.
A mountain bike should last for 20+ years. That said, this lifespan can vary greatly, with factors like poor build quality, periodic maintenance, demanding terrain, and damaging crashes significantly decreasing a mountain bike’s lifespan.
Signs of a good used bike include a frame with no cracks or scratches, suspension with no scuffs or marks, brakes with good stopping power, and a drivetrain that consistently shifts. A used bike with a consistent and documented maintenance schedule is also a sign it’s in good condition.